Shqipëria

Shqipëria

Shqipëria A fox lay by the side of the road with its eyes rolled back, its insides on the out, and with loose bits of gravel clinging to its fur. Teenage boys stood in the middle of the crowded motorway selling bootlegged CDs as cars and trucks jostled for position...
Acibadem Sistina and the Health Certificate

Acibadem Sistina and the Health Certificate

Acibadem Sistina and the Health Certificate It was sweaty and drab in the basement of the Acibadem Sistina Hospital, my arm bandaged and still stinging from the needle, as I slunk into the chair in the waiting hall, working on hour number 3 of the wait, and wondering...
The Scent of Apple Tea

The Scent of Apple Tea

The Scent of Apple Tea Istanbul residents scurried out into the streets on a Monday morning after the heavy hand of government had kept all but the most essential workers indoors over the weekend. Up the hill from the Sultanahmet and across the bridges from Galata and...
HES Code

HES Code

HES Code There is an unshakable unease that comes with crossing a border. Some border guards are welcoming and full of cheer while others are sullen and appear to be carrying the weight of the world. There was a time when waiting in line at customs brought more...