Kariakoo

Kariakoo

Kariakoo Visitors to Dar es Salaam who head out to areas like Oyster Bay, Masaki and Mbezi Beach would be forgiven for thinking that Tanzania’s most populous city is undeserving of its reputation as a chaotic jumble of urban sprawl. One needs only to leave the safety...
The Maasai Steps

The Maasai Steps

The Maasai Steps My son, you are on the eve of making the great journey across Serengeti and the Maasai Mara. May you travel swiftly and your feet leave no tracks. Take each step deliberately and keep your eyes on what is in front of you and your spirit in touch with...
The Adventures of the Millenium Falcon

The Adventures of the Millenium Falcon

The Adventures of the Millenium Falcon Booking an African safari is a daunting task. Supply far outweighs demand and there is a tremendous lack of transparency. You are quoted a price per day with an itinerary of your choice often with little idea of what you will end...
The Highway, the Beach, and the Road

The Highway, the Beach, and the Road

The Highway, the Beach, and the Road Zanzibar had been described to me by more than one person as ‘Paradise’; an island of beautiful sandy beaches, sublime scenery, a rich history, and exotic spices. But unlike in Arusha or Dar es Salaam where I could remain...
Shithead

Shithead

Shithead Things have changed in the twenty years since I first started travelling. Technology is the most obvious area of great change now that everyone is connected all the time through social media and their smartphones. It’s easier now to get around than it has...
Tales From Tazara

Tales From Tazara

Tales From Tazara Meeting Ulli The Tazara Company runs trains from Dar es Salaam, in Tanzania, to Kapiri Mposhi, in Zambia, and back two times a week. The trip is over 1800km and, depending on delays, takes over 50 hours. The route runs more than a 100km south of the...